Dordogne: nearly 1 ton of ceps sold in a few minutes at the first official market

The king of mushrooms has been present in the southern Dordogne since Sunday, September 7. At the first regulated market this Thursday, ceps were sold for between 15 and 20 euros per kg. Atmosphere under the Villefranche-du-Périgord market hall

He arrived at the Villefranche-du-Périgord market hall an hour before the opening of the first official and regulated porcini mushroom market of the season in the Dordogne. Armed with three crates full of porcini mushrooms, Jean-Pierre Malgouyat was the first producer to set up shop at 2 p.m. on Thursday, September 11. A regular. "I'm 70 years old," he smiles, adding that he's been coming "since the market was created," a few decades ago.

A retired farmer, the great-grandson of a former mayor of La Canéda (a commune merged with Sarlat) lives "7 km away", in Frayssinet-le-Gélat, a commune in the Lot bordering the former canton of Villefranche located within the authorized perimeter (the Villefranche forest massif) for wood owners to participate in the market.

The king of mushrooms has been around since Sunday, September 7th. "On very dry soil and warm earth, the rain that fell the previous days encouraged growth," says this expert who owns 60 hectares of woodland. After picking 30 kg on Sunday, Jean-Pierre harvested 10 kg – "but they weigh nothing" – put up for sale on this first day. There's no question of discussing the proposed prices at first, which will only be revealed at the last minute: we'll have to wait to assess the quantity presented to buyers... and to sound out the competition's prices.

Customers wait behind barriers installed several meters from the market hall: around a hundred of them rush in at 3 p.m., as soon as the church bells ring. This system was put in place ten to fifteen years ago to prevent "crates from being bargained for and set aside before the market opens," explain Alain Marthegoute and Yolande Nieuwarts, deputy mayors who oversee the organization.

You must pay a site fee of 25 euros for the season and follow a few rules: "No ferns on the porcini mushrooms," says the elected official when he sees some, before listing other rules such as the exclusive use of wooden crates without advertising.

In less than thirty minutes, more than 900 kg brought by around twenty pickers present were sold. A weight approaching the records (1) of 2024 which suggests a good season "which could last three weeks", says a specialist.

The market is held every day at 3 p.m. from Monday to Friday until the end of harvest time, while a free market is held on weekends at any time.

While black-headed ceps were sold for up to 25 euros per kg, while the largest ceps went for 10 euros, the vast majority of transactions were concluded between 15 and 20 euros per kg.

It was 15 euros for Jean-Pierre Malgouyat, who can also count on other customers who come to his home, with a discount. This extra income will supplement his farming retirement, just like the B&Bs and gîtes he runs with his wife. A little butter in the porcini mushrooms.

(1) The absolute record is 5 tonnes at the turn of the 2000s.