Samaná: the secret and sustainable perfume of the Caribbean

As I listen to Teresa Arizti explain what a travel tour operator like Soltour is, comparing it to a perfume factory that produces an all-in-one package: bottle, essence, and packaging, or, in the tourist context, a flight, hotel, insurance, transfers, and excursions, I wonder what notes make up the scent of Samaná. I hope to discover it on the journey that awaits us through this peninsula, a natural paradise in the Dominican Atlantic known for its white-sand beaches, mountains, rivers, and lush landscapes that make it a natural destination. Added to this is the region's commitment to sustainability, with initiatives like the Samaná Sustainable Tourism Circuit, which seeks to balance economic development with environmental conservation and community engagement.

For our first stop, access by sea is essential, and nothing beats crossing the bay of Santa Bárbara de Samaná, teeming with starfish, which can be seen with the naked eye beneath the crystal-clear waters. After a half-hour journey, in the southern part, one of the jewels of the Dominican Republic's national park system awaits us: Los Haitises, some 800 square kilometers in the middle of the Caribbean Sea dotted with countless mogotes, or hills about 40 meters high, teeming with tropical vegetation.

"Los Haitises means 'highlands' or 'mountains' in the language of the Taíno, the island's ancient inhabitants," explains our guide as he stops the boat after a motorboat approaches. We're warned that we must wait to enter due to a movie filming, and it's no surprise, because some of the most impressive scenes from Jurassic Park were shot in this unique location. And it's not hard to imagine pterosaurs flying over the well-known Cayo de los Pájaros, where today hundreds of birds flutter, including pelicans, stilts, terns, dredgers, gannets—many endemic and others migratory, and even some critically endangered, like Ridgway's hawk—fly by the seat of their pants. More than 200 species of birds and 700 plants have been found in the protected area, as well as important coral reefs, and its waters are home to marine mammals and countless species of fish, crustaceans, and mollusks. On land, species such as bats, hutias, and solenodons live here. This park also contains the largest sample of Caribbean mangroves, where species such as the red and white mangroves predominate.

We kayak through the intricate labyrinth of channels formed by these trees, while you are overcome with the sensation that they are walking without moving, with multiple feet, twisted, tangled... roots that descend like ancient fingers searching for secrets in the depths of the mud, the smell of which one eventually grows accustomed to. Protectors of the coast from storms, they reduce erosion and filter toxins and excess nutrients from the water, preventing coastal pollution. They are also important allies against climate change, as they absorb large amounts of carbon dioxide, helping to mitigate global warming. "If you pay attention, you can find, in addition to birds, turtles, fish, mollusks, crabs, oysters, and the burgao snail, very important both for the food of the coastal towns and for the local economy," explains our guide.

With the rhythm of your stroke, you feel like you're in a space where there's no rush, only at the mercy of the rhythm of the incoming and outgoing tide. Perhaps with luck, we might even catch a glimpse of the West Indian manatees, common in the waters of the mangrove cays. It's curious that the tour guides barely mention their existence in an attempt to protect these herbivorous marine mammals that inhabit the region's warm, shallow waters. In Samaná, serious efforts are being made to conserve manatees and their habitat, as their coastal habits expose them to pollution that reaches the sea from inland, collisions with boats, and illegal hunting. Despite these efforts, the population in the country is small and fragmented. There is no exact number, but it is estimated to be in serious decline, making it urgent to implement effective measures for their conservation. Not surprisingly, their role in the marine ecosystem is vital: by pruning the algae that grow around corals, they contribute to the health of reefs, which require sunlight to survive.

Coral reefs like those surrounding the five-star Bahía Príncipe Grand El Portillo or Grand Samaná, which protect the splendid white-sand beaches lined with palm trees from the waves, are ideal places to enjoy the resort's amenities, cool off in the clear waters, or snorkel to observe colorful schools of fish, queen conch, lionfish, scorpion fish, and even lobsters. In fact, one of the things that makes this province unique is the great natural beauty of its seabed. Among the most common types of coral are brain coral, with its intricate structures reminiscent of a human brain; the elegant elkhorn coral, which is in critical condition; and sea fan coral. In addition to these iconic corals, Samaná Bay is home to other important species such as star coral, lettuce coral, and other soft corals. Their work is crucial: they protect the coast from erosion, act as breeding grounds for countless species of fish, crustaceans, and mollusks, and promote artisanal fishing and sustainable tourism.

After a well-deserved swim at El Portillo beach and a rest among the coconut trees, the symbol of the Caribbean brought here by African slaves, there's nothing like enjoying a meal at resort restaurants like The Fish Market, La Terrienne, or Boavista, choosing dishes from the local cuisine. And if there's one absolute star in the recipes, it's undoubtedly the coconut. Of the nearly 290,000 tons produced in the Dominican Republic, the Samaná Peninsula accounts for 80%: more than just a fruit, it's a pillar of the region's gastronomy, culture, and economy. So, don't miss the fish with coconut, the signature dish of the area, or the moro de gandules al coco (a coconut-based soup). It's also used for handicrafts, creams, oils, and everything in between. Its festival is celebrated in mid-August, transforming the Samaná boardwalk, near Santa Bárbara Park, into a vibrant setting full of color, flavor, and tradition. Of course, two of their great drinks will not be missing: Dominican rum and mamajuana, which pours rum, red wine, and honey over a mixture of about twenty roots with aphrodisiac and medicinal properties, such as cinnamon, canelilla, anise, pega palo, marabeli, or palo indio.

Ideal for combining relaxation, nature, and local culture, Bahía Príncipe Grand Portillo is the perfect place for an all-inclusive family vacation. Its architecture is filled with colonial elements, boasts a central pool measuring over 800 square meters (three in total, plus a children's water park), and boasts 606 rooms with luxurious amenities, seven restaurants, seven bars, a gym, and a nightclub—all in keeping with the incredible natural surroundings of a resort committed to sustainability.

An example of this are their gardens, which have become a reservoir and natural laboratory for native and protected species. "We have undertaken actions such as removing the grass to make way for ground cover where plants and trees grow, which also provide shelter for significant biodiversity. We have varieties of palm trees, Creole mahogany, the neem tree that resists drought, the traveler's tree that contains water in its leaves when we tear them, and the magical ceiba, our sacred tree par excellence, sentinel of the forest, which has always been venerated by the Taíno, who placed their hands on it for strength and endurance; or their foreheads on the trunk for answers. Planting a new ceiba tree when a child is born ensures that they will be well connected to the earth and protected throughout their life," notes botanical expert Esmerlín Moya.

This expert is part of the Eco-Bahía Foundation team, an initiative of the Piñero Group that promotes regenerative tourism by implementing projects to recover and manage wildlife, promote native flora, and conserve marine resources. It implements actions to protect the Samaná coral reef, turtles, and manatees, as well as the maintenance of natural areas such as mangroves.

During our adventure, we had the opportunity to learn about the program for sea turtles such as the loggerhead, green, leatherback, leatherback, and hawksbill turtles that nest on these paradisiacal beaches. To protect them, they implement nest monitoring and protection measures on beaches, observe and monitor nesting females to ensure the nesting process, assess nest locations and, if necessary, relocate them to safe incubation pens, and accompany hatchlings to the sea upon birth. These initiatives all include environmental education activities to raise awareness among the local population and promote more sustainable and responsible tourism. To experience this firsthand, we had the opportunity to participate in a training session with students from the Professor Berca Morales High School, with whom we also conducted a reforestation campaign on the school grounds.

A youthful immersion, especially considering we'll be enjoying the Viva Wyndham Samaná hotel for a few days, an adults-only resort located in Las Terrenas with 286 rooms, some with private pools. The culinary offerings range from the best of Asian, Italian, and Caribbean cuisine with North American touches, all prepared by local and international chefs and served by a warm and helpful team. Activities for all tastes include yoga, cooking, and mixology classes, aquagym, tennis, archery, beach volleyball, soccer, a gym, and a catamaran. Everything you need to enjoy the experience, with excursion options to nearby places like El Limón Waterfall. A spectacular 50-meter-high waterfall, immersed in a lush tropical forest, flows into a beautiful natural pool, perfect for swimming.

We head off to take the boat and leave behind the Santa Bárbara de Samaná boardwalk with its iconic colorful houses and small businesses filled with aromas of lovingly brewed coffee, freshly cracked coconut, and fried fish seasoned with lemon and oregano. Along the promenade overlooking the bay, from where you can see the pedestrian-only bridges that connect the different keys, children play, dogs rest, and men chat about the sea, baseball (the national sport), or what they would do if they won the ticket. And, of course, they have plenty of time to talk about the latter, as lottery booths are a common sight in Dominican towns: the National Lottery with its afternoon and evening Gana Más lottery, and special draws; the online Leidsa lottery; the Real Lottery with its Quinielita Real, Pega 4 Real...; Loteka touches you with its Mega Chances and Repartideras...; La Primera; LoteDom; La Suerte Dominicana... Although luckily for us, as we embark on one of the most important ecotourism activities that takes place in the waters of Samaná: humpback whale watching. Of course, when the adventure begins with the phrase "seasickness is psychological," you don't quite know what we'll have ahead. We're joined by Wilfredo Benjamín Kelly, tour guide and one of the promoters of the Samaná Sustainable Tourism Circuit, who tells us about growing up with his father repairing boats, especially the small local boats called cholas, how he used to swim across the bay playing with whales, and the incredible sunsets with his childhood friends on Cayo Levantado. "Every year, thousands of humpback whales leave the North Atlantic to travel to the warm waters of the tropics, where their breeding and reproduction areas are located. In 1986, the La Plata and Navidad Banks Marine Mammal Sanctuary was created, one of the first protected areas of its kind in the world, the largest marine protected area in the Dominican Republic, and the first marine mammal sanctuary created in the Atlantic Ocean. The Humpback Whale Sanctuary in Samaná belongs to it," Wifredo points out, interrupting the explanation with a "turn at 1:00 PM!" Engines full throttle, we head toward the spot where a young whale calf has just surfaced to breathe. We'll have to wait about 15 or 20 minutes to see it again, as it will remain submerged in the meantime. Although we continue veering from side to side at full speed when someone spots another whale while trying to internalize the fact that seasickness is psychological.

“Samaná Bay and its surrounding waters are one of the main breeding and calving grounds for humpback whales in the world. Eighty-five percent are born in the Dominican Republic, so although their scientific name, Megaptera novaeangliae, alludes to the place where they were first observed, in New England, the truth is that they have a Caribbean soul and cradle. Sightings, including distance, are strictly regulated so that nothing done could impact the animals or the habitat,” explains Wifredo. It’s incredible to see the tiny whale calf emerge from the water, especially knowing that its mother, who can measure more than 15 meters long and weigh more than 30 tons, is submerged and watchful. We've reached the peak of the season, as most whales have already returned, but the grand spectacle is especially concentrated from mid-January to the end of March, when males weighing more than 40 tons leap across the water, trying to win the favor and attention of the females in a hypnotic courtship display that includes long, monotonous underwater songs that can be heard up to 30 kilometers away. It's recommended to complement the wildlife-watching experience with a visit to the Samaná Whale Museum.

There are countless options for enjoying Samaná's nature and its sustainable and responsible tourism. Horseback riding, buggy rides along wonderful beaches (some, like Rincón or Playa Bonita, are considered among the best in the world); discovering caves and incredible lagoons like Blue Lake or Gri Gri in Río San Juan, recently remodeled to preserve a natural treasure that provides a living to more than seventy families thanks to guided boat tours; or visiting idyllic spots like Cayo Levantado (which deserves a separate chapter).

"We recognize and promote actions that contribute to sustainable tourism, based on a responsible management model that benefits the community, visitors, and the environment," explains Lisette Gil, coordinator of the Sustainable Samaná Circuit. After living in Japan, Canada, and Spain, she says that in Samaná she has found her paradise in a small house on a hill, with her eleven dogs and a cat. "Each of the companies that are part of the circuit contributes, from every link in the value chain, to reducing water consumption, reducing the use of plastics, promoting efficient energy use, working on ecosystem regeneration, and reviving the cultural identity of the local community. Many sustainable actions are being promoted, both from the supply and demand sides. We've made a lot of progress, but there's still more to do," explains Gil, with whom we were able to speak just a few hours before returning to Spain.

What does Samaná smell like? Now I understand. Saltpeter, foam, and a touch of lime for its top notes. Sweet coconut, cocoa, and aged rum for the heart; and notes of warm, fertile earth and the soul of people for the base. This is how Samaná feels on the skin, in a perfume that isn't bottled, but inhaled like a slow journey, like an unforgettable tropical embrace.

All in one. Soltour offers this unique destination in the Dominican Republic exclusively with flights from Madrid to Santo Domingo and a transfer to the Samaná Peninsula. The service departs every Thursday and Sunday until October. In addition, in summer, the service increases its frequency with an additional Tuesday departure, available from June to September.

Accommodations. Travelers can stay at magnificent all-inclusive hotels such as the Bahía Príncipe Grand El Portillo , Bahía Príncipe Grand Samaná , or Viva V Samana by Wyndham (adults only).

Beaches and activities . There are options for everyone: enjoy the hotels' wonderful beaches, their activities, or the excursions they offer.